Opening words from artists Levitt, Loeb and Agee in their movie on Spanish Harlem at Moma.
We make money.
In fact I didn't realize just how Starbucks-y the place is. In my mind, it was more like Paris than that- but San Francisco has a much stronger funky cafe game. We rule in the number of hipster places with vinyl records and micro breweries. Sure, one could find those things in Brooklyn, but this entry is about the man with the hat with the tan (that is how I was taught how to spell Manhattan).
I had never ever taken a trip just to New York; being as I usually am en route to some place else. So we had two great weeks of just walking up and down every neighborhood, which was a delight, and rather eye opening. I was rendered speechless at the sight of one of the really long streets that head North/South: the endless, electrifying combination of giant buildings and human ants. What is new, at least to me, is how there seem to be no "bad" areas of town anymore. It has all been pretty much gentrified- we walked all the way north around the park with no fear of Harlem- a place that now has 20 million dollar penthouses; and then we walked around the Lower East Side which had a few pit bulls off leash, but also young blondes with yoga mats.
New York was the offspring you will recall of the Dutch East India trading company - a corporation of investors and capitalists, and that is pretty much what it is today. Yes one hears about the artists and the opera, and it is still astonishing to turn a quiet corner at the Frick Madison and run smack dab into a Rembrandt. But in every museum is prominently placed the name of the rich person that made it possible. They make the money, then use it to lord over their fellow citizens. I am not saying we don't do this in California, but New York invented it...or at least was the first to borrow the whole patron of the arts as power play, from the Europeans. (One phrase you don't see much in New York City is: "gift from anonymous.")
Our schedule was the same every day: walk 15 miles or so and see a museum. We managed the Whitney twice, the Met twice, the Neue Gallerie, the Frick, and MOMA, as well as a walk from Brooklyn all the way home to the Carlyle (walking across the Brooklyn Bridge was a highlight). In the evenings we were shut out of any really trendy restaurants because we had not planned 6 months in advance- when we asked our concierge he either offered us 9:45 p.m.on Monday night, or told us the requirements meant going on line at 3 a.m. and swearing allegiance to Zoroastrianism. So we ate at a lot of small, charming Italian places- because New York is just simply very Italian. The majority of hip places to eat are not in the Upper East Side of course, but it is daunting to be tucked in to your little place after 15 miles of walking, only to fight traffic in an uber- all for the thrill of a samosa. So the size of New York is kind of misleading: people tend to stay in their little hood, because it is a pain in the ass to move yourself through space. I have friends on the Upper East Side who have almost never been to the Upper West.
Oh speaking of samosas- I resolved to go down the list of one magazine's "25 essential New York restaurants, and Number 13 was a dosa stand in Washington square park. A man from Sri Lanka has been serving up vegan dosas and samosas for 15 years and has a cult following, so I dragged Thomas. Long story short we waited an hour in quite chilly weather for a tasty (but whatever) little lunch. On a warm day with no line, it would have been grand, but here is the thing about New York these days: it is safer and cleaner than at most times in its history, but that impression changes rather dramatically when you stop for an hour. Once you stop moving, you see the grime and human misery that is a any large city (except Tokyo)- the addicts with a jar of peanut butter in their hand; the hustler trying to shame you out of your lunch or place in line. When we were walking, Thomas said I was practically singing "Start Spreading the Neeewwws!!!, but once we stopped, we had to beat back the masses like the pros we now were.
and how we love it all.