Thursday, December 8, 2022

Heavy Seas and Rainbows




White Rainbow

"Blow, blow, thou winter wind Thou art not so unkind, As man's ingratitude." 
William Shakespeare 

We have taken a very Northern route to avoid some weather, which is sort of disappointing to Thomas and me. The good news is it is December in the Atlantic so if you like wind you have come to the right place. It is blowing 50+ knots across the deck which made them close it officially, leaving just the intrepid and the lunch drinkers who took a wrong turn after lunch on deck. It was, as a man reported to us "Invigorating!!!"
I don't know what it is, but maybe there is extra oxygen in the air out here, or maybe one is just so happy not to be actually IN the scary turbulent lethal freezing sea below, that one has a spring in one's step. You want to quote Shakespeare and shake your fist and tell the Atlantic to BRING IT ON SISTER!!! you can't catch us!! But you don't because the ocean can indeed catch us and we know it. So we skip like children around the windy deck, avoiding the part close to the edge as the wind almost pushes us over. And we whisper :

Blow, winds, and crack your cheeks! Rage! Blow!
You cataracts and hurricanoes, spout
Till you have drenched our teeples, drowned the cocks!
You sulphurour and thought-executing fires,
Vaunt-couriers to oak-cleaving thunderbolts,
Singe my white head! And thou, all-shaking thunder,
Strike flat the thick rotundity o' the world!
Crack nature's molds, all germens spill at once
That make ingrateful man!”

Anyway, went in and had a pedicure, now soon dinner where handsome will bring caviar. Things are not exactly the same after the pandemic, and I hope it goes back to the way it was. There used to be, it seemed, more crew and there were four formal nights; now only two. Worst of all, the soft serve is only vanilla. We told this to our powerful friend who immediately got on the phone in front if us and demanded answers. It was hysterical. I told him if he managed to get chocolate back I would be duly impressed. 

We have been blessed with so many rainbows. One was the strangest sight- completely white, from presumably ice. 

Thomas admitted, much like an alcoholic, that when he takes the stairs two steps at a time, he regrets the loss of steps counted on his watch. 

The captain seems to be the most beloved we have ever had- all the crew says how kind he is. Every day at noon he makes the captain's announcement regarding weather and distance travelled etc. Then he gives a little anecdote usually about terms that came from mariners- chewing the fat for example came from the cheap beef mariners had to eat and gnaw at while at sea, and because it took so long, they did it while chatting. Today he told this story: 

The Japanese eat very little fat and have fewer heart attacks than the British

The French eat a lot of fat and have fewer heart attacks than the British

The Italians drink a lot of wine and have fewer heart attacks than the British

The Germans drink a lot of beer and have fewer heart attacks than the British.

Conclusion: Eat and drink what you like. The problem is speaking English.  

Ellie Selfie (Selliefie!) in her happy place

description of conditions




One of our two living rooms

Dining Room

Tuesday, December 6, 2022

Quick Log


 For those who are interested, we have just passed Cape Race of NewFoundland and heading out to the really deep blue. I am slightly obsessed with Newfoundland...is it Canada? Who lives there? 

The swells are pretty big, so we loll around a lot....I keep thinking that maybe some of you would in fact be seasick. The seas though are calm, and the air is really cold. We saw the deck hands salting the deck against ice, and we have never seen that before. As always the sleeping is incomparable. It is like sleeping in a giant baby rocker. 

Today we went to a 'behind the headlines' panel with British journalists who riffed on both the netlfix series on Harry and Megan, as well as Boris Becker being let out of jail early as well as funding for private schools. Of course the world cup is taking up a lot of our time. Osman says Brazil is going to win it. 

Sea is now a chilly 43 degrees (the day before yesterday, a balmy 57). Birds are sill near the boat, but not I suspect for long. 

I love my room so much; It is a source of constant delight. 

Pictures soon I promise. xx

Monday, December 5, 2022

Crossing

 


Hello from the North Atlantic where we will soon pass (south of us actually) the final resting place of the Titanic! I will keep this sort of brief today, because I am worried that the QM2 blogs will repeat themselves. But it is the first time we are back in three years, so some things have changed. The big news is that we some how landed what is likely the best suite on board. It is a long story, but Thomas found it at a discounted rate on some German travel agents website. We could throw a cocktail party for 50 in it...and if we had that many friends on board, you know I would. We have more televisions than we do at home, and a private elevator into our room. It is not just any elevator however, but our beloved glass elevator - the one that alert bloggers will recognize from old posts. Our status has reached people are gossiping about you status because we are under 70 and are positioned at the very front of the ship at the end of a mysterious little hallway. Of course, a table of Texans couldn't take it and had to introduce themselves to us, with the drunken words "YOU ARE THE ONLY ATTRACTIVE POEPLE ON THE SHIP" and then because they travel often and are not used to being in not the best suite, wanted to know just who the Fuck we were. The single man who is their friend and travels everywhere with them is particularly salty because he is always in the presidential suite and is having a hard time with his reduced status. If we are thrown overboard, tell the police about him. 

The view from our room is just insane..which is kind of the bad news, because we don't need to leave. Also maybe bad news is the manicurist from Jamaica told me about the very last trip which was "so bad geril. She be terrible" (direct quote.) By 'bad' she means four days of hellish seas and her having to stuff ginger in her mouth to keep from barfing. I asked her if the front of the ship was really worse, and since she works in the spa which is in the bow, she laughed. YES! GIRL!! 

So I decided to take action and introduced myself to the acupuncturist on board who told me if a storm came, to call her before it got bad. If I was already throwing up, there wasn't much she could do. Thomas keeps reminding me that I don't get seasick, but we are literally in the most forward cabin and it is December. Kind of hoping it will get bad, just for the blog. 

So far it is just rather cold, so we don't step for as long...the food isn't the best I have ever had, and the staff seems somewhat shrunken. I think this is all the covid hangover. Speaking of which, there is almost no talk of it here. Very few people wear masks, we are stuffed in together, and oh well. 

Handsome Osman is still here and just as funny as ever. I think he is making us pasta by the table...and the man can cook. 

The theme of the trip is a literary one, so all the lectures are a talk with an author or book signing. The Brits are champion readers and we see all kinds of strange apparitions of people reading actual books. Adorable. 

Ok will post photos asap. 

Over and out.  

Tuesday, September 20, 2022

Thus You Shall Go to The Stars…

 

Our rocket man. (Also very best song to accompany this blog.)

If the Wehlen family had a motto, it might be: "Travel often with large groups to see this beautiful earth" (Iter saepe cum magnis coetibus hanc pulchram videre terram hanc pulchram...) or maybe just simply: sic itur ad astra: "thus you shall go to the stars."

Indeed, there is nothing like a big group trip: you bond in a way you don't at a dinner party or a night at the opera; and when you add in daily feelings of awe towards sky and space and sand, followed by a hot tub and an open bar; you have a pretty good week. 

 

The photos probably tell the story best...so I will not write much. But in short, we had a collection of the smartest, loveliest people for almost a week "and"...as it says in the bible: "it was good".  Thomas and I started an award while we were in Africa years ago for the best vacation-er. The person that joins everything, never complains even if bitten to death by mosquitos, the one who finds the gin and pours it for you first, the one who laughs in the face of danger and cold and heat, the one who makes you laugh on the earliest, coldest cruelest Wehlen morning excursions. On this person we bestow the sacred "Sundowner Award" for service to the noble cause of goofing off. This year the award went to F's brilliant friend from Exeter Peter T, who climbed mountains and introduced himself to strangers and never threw up in the hot tub...Mister perfect. Andrew, Thomas, Frederick and I debated the winner in our room the night before. We knew it probably had to be Peter, but Andrew made some strong arguments for one John B from Bielefeld, Germany. He maintained that we have never had a guest described as "unresponsive" and felt this level of joie de vivre deserved commendation. "Unresponsive"  was the word Luis used with me after he went to check on John.  I suggested to Luis that he needed to explore this further, and bring me a full report before I called his lovely mother (my friend) and explain we had, in essence, killed her son. Luis came back with the good news that John was alive, and "would be at dinner shortly".  Andrew argued that the minuscule length of time between "perhaps dead" to dinner in a pressed shirt was impressive. I couldn't argue, ..also this was the same kid who had been seen sniffling and Thomas told him to go to the pharmacy and take a Covid test. The test was negative, which of course means nothing, but he raced back on his bicycle being chased by stray dogs and drugged out men in ponchos, to make the bus that morning. Keep in mind another kid spoke perfect Spanish, acted as our translator, and had a 33 resting heart rate; and he didn't win....so you see how stiff the competition was this year. 




"Great time; Great Llamas; Great stars"- Quote by Will, K. Ca. USA


Thomas was quite nearly ecstatic with the level of conversation one could casually drop in on. These were actual examples: What is language exactly? Why can you see the stars better with your peripheral vision? What constitutes a descendent of Ghengis Kahn? What is art if an AI can make it? Should AI have rights? Why do college pre-med classes use inflated brains instead of the wrinkly ones....? or perhaps, in the lull before cocktails, why not dive into a chat about the Cyclone Zyklon, the pesticide that was used to gas the Jews!? The choices were endless. 

Our diversity was particularly splendid: we had Schneider siblings who have literally grown up in a five star hotel and claim friends from around the globe; and we had a kid from Exeter who had barely ever left his home state. But in the great margarita blender that is my kind of party, it all came together- better than the sum of its parts. If these kids are in charge of the world someday, we will be ok.  

I thought the main draw would be the night sky, but the day was filled with sights so strange and amazing, that it was effectively a tie. The night routine with the astronomy guide (not an astronomer, but well informed nonetheless) meant we would go up to a platform near the hotel and lie down on cushioned sun loungers under blankets. Then they turned off the lights, and what appeared to be a children's drawing of a night sky would materialize: endless little white blinking dots smiling down on us. It was sublime; silent and beautiful beyond description. No one wanted very much to jump up when the time came to look through the telescope, but when we did, we saw stars living together in pairs like large, lovely lesbians, (our sun is of course a single gal) and Saturn and huge comets, and dot after beautiful white dot. F was up (he tells me now) almost every night until 3 am because he couldn't tear himself away. 

Some of the highlights were lunch barbecues by the pool; walking as a group after dinner into the national park and simply looking up as one, at the heavens above;  Amy teaching me finally the trick to hanging out in a cold plunge for many minutes; taking an outdoor shower while looking at the Milky Way; and the simple pleasure of seeing people you like very much at dinner, and knowing you will see them again the next day. 

We only had one mishap on the day we woke up really early to see the geysers (the locals pronounced it geezers which we loved). We had a high altitude breakfast cooked for us and then started back to the blessed hotel and hot tub. I was sort of frazzled that day due to a very long bumpy ride out to the geezers. Then we hear an ominous sound and are told one of the vans was broken and a new one needed to be called in (we were at least an hour away from the hotel) Luckily for us, the one that broke was for the kids..so we handed out sun hats and drinks and left them by the side of the road. 

So we somehow got 23 people there and 23 people home; and we were sad when it was over. Thomas and I longed for humidity however so we settled in to a big fat seat on a South American airline (they are fabulous now) and fled to Miami. Lexi wrote and asked me if I felt invigorated after 11 days there. HA! I think I speak for all of us when I say we were absolutely exhausted...and dried up like prunes. Drinking wine and taking hot tubs at this altitude and humidity is not for the faint of heart. But that is how seductive the stars are: like all great loves, they will make you do crazy things. 

Onward Travelers! Where to next? xx

Will K and Frederick



Luis, Chico and international man of mystery John B

Schneider siblings and super star guests

One of many pools...was prettier than it looks



Breakfast at 15,000 feet. Group had woken up at 5 am and it was 30 degrees. And this photo was taken before they were stranded at altitude with a broken van. 





My neighbor









Geysers 

Breakfast of grilled bread and eggs







Can't do this justice....why do we ever fight or worry? 



Lunch in the desert waiting for us after a walk







Joe from PEA who drinks neither alcohol nor caffeine but embraces the hot tub with gusto




Intrepid crew drove to 18,000 feet and walked to 20,000. Our very own Hanna B. scrambled up the fastest



From left:
Joe (Exeter); Anouk (Schneider cousin); Chico; Harsha (UChicago roomie); Will; Mystery person; Peter (Exeter, and sundowner winner); Luis S; Ida S; John B (Long time Almhof guest )

Lovely Margaret Fry Brigham



Chico photographing a Vicuna at 15,000 feet 


Cafe in town

Chilly in Chile...about 7 am at 15,000 feet 




Ida and Hanna

sic itur ad astra



Happy barbecue day
















Ida 


Chico with Sundowner winner 


John B, Chico and Will K; Peter T


Hanna and Ida







We set up chairs for them to wait for the new van to come

Luis with the Sundowner runner up John B


Chico and Charlie

Chico and Charlie in town

F and his well dressed mother.


Ancient rock scribles

Will following Thomas down a steep sand hill






Two Exonians Peter and Jacob












Chicago roommates

Amy, Simone, Ellie, Margaret..I appear to be losing my sense of humor as wait for breakfast





And thus you shall go to the stars....