 |
What can I say about Dubrovnik? It's almost laughably beautiful and well preserved....from 1205-1358 it was a Venetian colony; from 1358-1808 it was the Republic of Ragusa under the Ottomans. It is best known for an old town surrounded by a huge medieval wall that is so magnificent that the whole place is a UNESCO world heritage sight; and it is where Game of Thrones is filmed. Alas, it is utterly overrun by every single person with two dimes to rub together on this planet. There are masses of hot tourists pushing their luggage down the street, Japanese under umbrellas, backpackers, ice cream eaters (a name the Wehlens gave them....obviously the lowest of the low), American retirees declaring it the most beautiful place they have ever seen and they should know because at home, they don't mean to brag, they live in a gated community where they "drive around in golf carts. Yes, it's a lot of fun". (actual conversation).
We had a moment last night where we couldn't get out of the old town after dinner. There were so many people coming in and going out, of the medieval gate that there was no movement. The police had to help. Thomas took the photos below-it was actually starting to unnerve me.
Anyway after the Ottomans, Napoleon was here, and built a fort on the mountain (Srdj) behind our hotel. And of course there was the terrible siege of Dubrovnik from October to April 1991 when the Bosnian Serbs attacked the newly independent Croatia, whose port and all its glories they wanted.
We dragged F up to the museum which was surprisingly moving. In rather terrible English, they describe how they never expected to be attacked. They thought no one would bomb a world heritage sight.
F somehow found a tennis center, and has been playing in 100 degree heat (with a nice dash of humidity- Dubrovnik has, I read, a "borderline humid subtropical climate" god help us). In the spirit of air conditioning, Thomas and I headed for the gym which has a very communism meets the Hilton vibe. But it was at this point that I broke down mentally and said I just couldn't- no way no how, risk being killed by a nuclear bomb in this hotel gym. Trump has at least given me that- a genuine embracing of what few moments we have left. So no basement gyms.
In desperation I pointed up hill where a gondola was taking people to a fort. "why don't we walk up there, to the Srdj mountain? We know how to walk up hills." And in a pattern that we see again and again in our marriage, I come up with a wild idea, and the German executes it. T looked up the stats and relayed to me the vertical-in Lech terms. "It's one Oberlech to Kriegerhorn." Ok that I know, that I can do, that takes me 50 minutes. The one tiny detail I overlooked was the heat and humidity. My God....I can report it was the hottest I have ever been. EVER. I was actually light headed at one point, thinking that this would be a truly ridiculous way to go- keeling over in Dubrovnik. Luckily Thomas had just read an article about ultra marathoners and how little water they actually need. So he didn't bring any; and not did I.
At one point, I Eleanor B W took off my shirt and stumbled up in a jog bra. I actually walked past some of my countrymen who were sitting on the ground. (Obviously I did not stop). Maybe they made it, who knows.
So we have to move hotels- the boat might be here Monday; if so we will jump on for two nights on its way to Split. But we are so sad. When I heard that it was delayed again, I actually got a lump in my throat. I know what you are thinking - get a grip. But I am so very hot; I would like to be taken out to sea now.
Fingers crossed.
 |
| Making the crazy sign |
 |
| Jolly trio with lobster bibs |
 |
| Almost done; shirt still on |
No comments:
Post a Comment